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Currently Browsing: Results for Tag "englman"

Seax-OC#1-(PART 1)

Seax-OC#1-(PART 1) Don't need all that material, so I hot-cut the handle off with a hatchet and a hammer (use like a chisel).They're call "clinkers" and will cause cold-spots in your forge, restrict air-flow, and act as heat-sinks.

Seax-OC#1-(Part 2)

Seax-OC#1-(Part 2) And through the power of magic, it is now fully shaped and the hilt/pommel have been blackened!Here I was flame-blackening the handle and heating the end of the tang to make peening it down easier.

Kitchen Knife OC#3-(PART2)

Kitchen Knife OC#3-(PART2) After FINALLY getting the steel successfully hardened and RELATIVELY straight, I went out to grind it as close to perfect as I could get.There is still a bit of a lazy curve to one side, but that shouldn't affect the cutting ability.

Kitchen Knife OC#3- (PART3)

Kitchen Knife OC#3- (PART3) I can definitely say that this is the first knife I've made where I'm way more proud of the handle than the actual blade.That being said, it definitely cuts quite well regardless, but I can imagine it would be a MUCH better knife if I were working with higher quality steel.

Magic Lantern-OC#1-(PART 3)

Magic Lantern-OC#1-(PART 3) Jumping back to the ball-and-shank portion that will go on top of the lantern and hold the triangle.I've ground down the shank to the appropriate size and placed it within the chuck of the drill-press.